One Warm Line:
Coppermine River by Raft, from Rocknest Lake to the Arctic Ocean,
July 23rd to August 3rd, 2014
Fifteen intrepid souls embarked on an adventure to raft the wild Coppermine River through Canada's Northwest Territories and Nunavut to the Arctic Ocean. Here is our story set in historical context...
Day Five: Sunday, July 27
Folks work up around 7:00 a.m. and to save time we had a simple breakfast of coffee and porridge. As the miles traveled have been considerably less than anticipated, time has become more of an issue. This morning the temperature seemed to be quite warm, perhaps in the 15 C (60 F) range. While not as bad as at Rocknest, the smoke still hung heavy in the air. The source of the smoke is the boreal forest a few hundred miles to the south. As we travelled north the black spruce and pines in the river valley were distinctly smaller and sparse. If one ventured out of the valley and into the hills and plains to the east or west, there would be encountered the Barren Lands, also called tundra, that stretch from the tree line to the Arctic Ocean.
Throughout the day we had to content with shallow water and rapids, some of them more challenging depending on the current and extent of the boulder fields. In some places where the river meandered in a broad plain it was difficult to determine the channel and current. Often, the best way was to notice the direction the subsurface weeds pointed, and to follow accordingly. We used paddles more than kickers at various times. Again, on many occasions we had to walk the rafts through the more shallow areas.
Around 4:00 p.m. we were drawn into a very heavy set of rapids that stretched the full breadth of the river, perhaps a half mile across. As there was no way to determine in advance what the best route was through the maze, we simply took our chances. For the better part of an hour Greg and I dodged many large boulders in trying to take advantage of the currents swirling around them to lever us further down to the next set, and so forth. The final drop was about eight to 10 feet that extended about 50 feet or so. We were the first to make it through, being the smallest raft and the most maneuverable. We docked at the base of the rapid about 200 yards from the east bank. We got out of the raft into the water to climb back up the waterfall on some extremely slippery rocks to see where others were and tried to help the larger rafts come through. Luke and Michelle’s boat managed to get through, as did Karl and Emily’s. The others ran into greater difficulty. Max and Nick’s raft with its heavy cargo was hung up on boulders, but eventually got through. Dwight and Linda’s larger raft, fully loaded, was more difficult to maneuver. Gregg and I managed to get up to the boat and we all tried pushing it through. Some of the gear was taken off, mainly the heavy jerry cans of gas, and we carried several of these through the rapids to the docking area below. We were finally able to get the boat through to the bottom.
Doug and Carina’s raft, the largest of the fleet, had even more difficulty. Doug decided to walk the boat through the rapid on the east side close to shore. This meant that much of the cargo had to be portaged along the shore. It took the better part of three hours, I estimate, to get the all of the boats to the bottom of the rapid. Once everyone was through, we reloaded the rafts and crossed some deeper water and docked a little downstream to rest a bit and have a snack before launching out again. By this time it was about 7:00 in the evening. We passed the party of 6 women canoeists who were also resting on the bank below the rapid. We pushed on, however, hoping to make up a few more miles before making camp. A pretty decent campsite was found a few miles further on the west bank.
We enjoyed a terrific dinner of steak and pasta. A small trout and a small arctic grayling that were caught added to the menu. After a tiring and trying day, bed was welcomed at around 10:30. We probably made less than 20 miles this day.
John Richardson writes:
Wednesday, July 4th 1821
Embarked at half past 4 in the morning, descended many long rapids and passes through some shallow expansions of the river. Wherever the rapid appeared dangerous the ammunition and instruments were landed and carried along the banks. On one of these occasions as the people were re-embarking from a ledge of ice which adhered to the bank it gave way under their feet and they were precipitated into the river – but were rescued without further damage than a sound dunking, and the canoe fortunately tho’ narrowly escaped being crushed by the weight of the mass which exceeded several tons.
Throughout the whole day’s voyage the current was very strong marking a steep descent. The banks of the river were gravelly and latterly were bounded at a small distance by cliffs of sinfe sand from one to two hundred feet high…. p. 63
After having come 21 miles on a North course we overtook the Indians at 11 a.m. [the Indians being the guiding and hunting party employed by the Franklin expedition.] … in pursuit of a band of musk-oxen, whose tracks they had seen. In consequence of this information we pitched our tents and in the afternoon received the agreeable intelligence of the death of eight cows of which four were full grown. A young [muskox] cow irritated by the firing ran down to the river and passed close to Mr Franklin who was walking a short distance from the encampment. He fires, and wounded it, when it instantly turned and ran at him but he avoided its fury by running to an elevated spot on the ground. p. 65
Before we had much time to assess the sitaution, we came upon this boulder field and were quickly into the thick of it. As you can see, the river is cmpletely impossible to navigate. Over the next few hours we spent more time in the water than out.
The serenity of the evening belies the melee earlier in the day.
Nick and Karl do a fancy dance across some very slippery rocks.
A number of us climb back up the rapid to help the larger rafts through. The red "ark" heads for shore.
After this ordeal, a little R & R is in order. Here, Max and Luke take a dip. Apparently the water was not too cold along the top, but three feet down it was like a freezer.