One Warm Line:
Coppermine River by Raft, from Rocknest Lake to the Arctic Ocean,
July 23rd to August 3rd, 2014
Fifteen intrepid souls embarked on an adventure to raft the wild Coppermine River through Canada's Northwest Territories and Nunavut to the Arctic Ocean. Here is our story set in historical context...
John Richardson continues his journal...
Tuesday July 10th 1821
Sultry weather. Much annoyed by musquitoes. The drying of the meat impeded by thunder showers. Remained encamped all day. P. 71
Wednesday July 11th 1821
The Hunters having gone off last night with the intention of waiting for us at the Copper mountains we followed them this morning at three O clock and having passed the Mouse a considerable stream which after a tortuous course through the plains fall into the river on its eastern bank, we came to a wide and shallow channel which it was necessary from the rapidity of the current to descend with poles. Here we passed a cliff of clay stone of a greyish color and dipping NNW at an angle of 20 degrees per compass. At half past 7 we arrived at the foot of the Copper Mountains and landing on the western bank of the River we found that the Indians had killed three Musk oxen. Pp. 71-72
Thursday July 12th 1821
Embarked at 6 and proceeded down the river the Indians following by land. As we were now entering upon the confines of the Eskimaux country our guides recommended us to be cautious in lighting fires lest we should discover ourselves adding that the same reason would lead them to avoid crossing the tops of the hills. They moreover informed us that from thence to the sea the river was little else than a succession of rapids, on which account they quitted their canoes altogether. Mr Franklin however deeming a small canoe to be absolutely requisite should we be compelled to walk along the coast ordered two men to conduct one of them down the river. P. 73
Throughout today’s voyage the current was very strong but the navigation tolerably good and we had to lighten the canoes only once. The river is in many places confined betwixt perpendicular walls of brownish-red sandstone having a thin salty structure and dipping northward, is everywhere to the northward of the Copper mountains narrow and flows through a channel 150 to 200 feet below the surrounding country… The wood has almost disappeared from the banks of the river being confined to a few well sheltered corners and the surrounding country is perfectly naked. Many large fragments of ice that have accumulated out of the reach of the stream remind us of the tardy departure of winter from this inhospitable land. P. 73
The Indians arrived in the evening with a report that a bear had sprung upon them whilst they were walking in earnest conversation with each other. This attack was so sudden that they had not time to level their guns properly and they all missed except Akaicho who less confused than the others took a deliberate aim and killed it on the spot. The Indians do not eat the flesh of the Grizzle-bear themselves, but knowing that we have no such prejudice they brought us some of the choice pieces and upon trial we unanimously pronounced them to be superior to the best musk ox meat we had seen.
Day Eight, Wednesday, July 30th
It rained all night with morning breaking to bitterly cold winds, steady drizzle and periods of heavy rain. The sound of rumbling thunder could be heard throughout the night and I wondered if we would make Kugluktuk in the given time, especially if we were weather bound on this boggy shelf of river bank for several days, in the arctic this time of year a very real possibility. According to the map, most of the heavy rapids are still ahead of us. Clearly, this day would not be a travel day! The brisk wind and driving rain persisted throughout most of the day. It was difficult to keep a fire going with what limited wood available being damp or soaked. We tried to dry clothes as much as we could, but more than drying, our clothes were “smoked.” Most stayed holed up in tents and sleeping bags much of the day as this was the only way to stay somewhat warm and dry. We thought that at any moment it could start snowing. The temperature likely did not get even close to six or eight C (40 F). It was good to have a relaxing day, actually, even if it was forced by poor weather. I had fine chats with Nick, Max and others. We had a late brunch, and most took the opportunity to sleep through the afternoon.
In early evening, Doug, Greg, Luke and Ben hiked down to the river bank to fish for arctic grayling and caught many—15 or so, all quite small. Linda and Carina made an excellent dinner of fish and pasta. Dwight led in a devotional reading and a discussion. Max got out his guitar—yes a guitar was brought along and survived the rapids!—and we sang some choruses. The Dwight family are excellent singers, everyone one. This would be a remarkable scene for someone stumbling upon our camp—a group of cold and wet travelers huddled in a wet tent, fog rolling over the hills and about to snow, yet making music and having a wonderful time together.
About this latitude we are parallel to the most northern reaches of Great Bear Lake to the east and the Barren Lands to the east and north. While some stands of stunted trees are scattered down the Coppermine River valley, mostly black spruce, the Barren Lands composed of tundra dominates the landscape consisting largely of shrubs and willows with moss and lichen covering exposed bedrock of the Precambrian shield. Continuously frozen Ice lies just below the surface vegetation, and the lakes, ponds and streams too numerous to count.
This landscape is one of the oldest known regions of the planet, with rock formations just east of Great Bear Lake carbon dated to 4.1 billion years old, an epoch the earth was moving from a molten state to solid mass. Crossing through this area, especially exploring the eastern shore of Great Bear Lake that I have done many times, I get a sense of its ancient and unchanging nature still largely untouched by human manipulation.
Folks went to bed around 11:00 p.m., hoping tomorrow will bring more agreeable weather.