One Warm Line:
Coppermine River by Raft, from Rocknest Lake to the Arctic Ocean,
July 23rd to August 3rd, 2014
Fifteen intrepid souls embarked on an adventure to raft the wild Coppermine River through Canada's Northwest Territories and Nunavut to the Arctic Ocean. Here is our story set in historical context...
Day Nine, Thursday, July 31st – Muskox and Sandstone Rapids
We woke to little brighter skies and rain that seems dissipating somewhat. We enjoyed a good breakfast of bacon, eggs and pancakes, then broke camp, dragging all our considerable gear down the bank, I estimate about a 50 foot drop, to load the rafts. It is always quite the procedure, especially for the larger rafts, to stow and tie down the supplies. We departed about 11:00 a.m. to overcast skies and cool temperatures—in the range of 10 C (50 F). Thinking we were close to the next named point on the map, the Muskox Rapids, everyone was anticipating another adventure. As it turned out, nothing we encountered over the next several hours seemed to merit being named. It seems we were further upstream than initially thought and time and distance was becoming increasingly an issue.
There were many sections, mile after mile, of white water with two and three foot standing waves. Occasionally we saw patches of blue sky and those brief moments of warming sun were comforting. We passed more snow fields; some appeared to be less than 100 yards from shore. In would have been terrific to have had the time to stop and hike up to these areas—maybe even have an late July snowball fight—but we needed urgently to make up time after a full day’s delay due to the weather. Again, scores of bald eagles and golden eagles, solo and in pairs, soared overhead and then cruised lower to have closer inspection of our rafts.
Luke and Evann, Karl and Emily pass below one of the ice fields encountered on the trip.
Michelle, Ben and Dwight, Evann and Luke start out this morning...
A small stream framed by many wild flowers provided an excellent backdrop for individual and group photos.
After about an hour we pushed on, thinking perhaps we might make the next named spot, the Sandstone Rapids. Again, it was difficult to determine with much confidence where we were exactly since there were many sets of rapids and white water, shallow and swift currents. We finally came upon a rapid hemmed in by rocky cliffs at least 70 feet high on both sides of the Coppermine. This surely was Sandstone. After going through series of standing water, drops and crests, all emerged a little wet but energized and excited. We built and fire, snacked and relaxed a little. Fresh wolf tracks were found on the sandy beach.
At 7:00 p.m. we pushed on to make up time and in hopes of reaching Escape Rapids by late evening. Despite a lovely rainbow appearing in the north, by around 10:00 p.m. the weather worsened. We found an acceptable site on the east side of the river where a small creek meets the Coppermine. Setting up the five tents for sleeping, the meeting tent and comfort station fortunately have become routine now, and within a half hour we were set for the night. Most headed to bed around 11:30 after a late dinner. I was fortunate to have a sleeping bag good to -15 C (5 F), and I needed its every degree of warmth!
Finally, late in the afternoon we came to Muskox Rapids, unmistakable with the most dramatic water seen since Rocky Defile. We encountered 4 foot standing waves, some exposed boulders and deep water. This made the traverse very exciting and really a lot of fun. It would have been wonderful to go back up the river and come through again if we had larger kickers and more time. At some points the waves would completely wash over the rafts as we hit the waves at 70 degree angles. Being discharged from the rapid, we came upon a sandy cove on the west side of the river, beached, and made a good fire to warm up, relax, snack and take some pictures.
Muskox Rapis MUST be around here somewhere!
See "Day 9.5" for images of the stopping area north (downstream) of Muskox Rapids...
Max and Nick (hidden under cargo for warmth, approach the Sandstone Rapids. Notice the lovely rainbow on the horizon.
John Richardson continues his journal recording experiences of the Franklin Expedition in the Muskox and Sandstone Rapips area of the Coppermine River.
Friday July 13th 1821
Weather warm and fine. Temperature in the afternoon 75 [degrees F].
Junius and Augustus were sent off this morning with directions to proceed to a remarkable rapid said by the Indians to be resorted to at this season for the purpose of fishing by the Eskimaux and to endeavor to open communication with any of that nation they might find there… They were directed to return immediately if there were no lodges at the rapid. Pp. 74-75
Saturday July 14t 1821 Coppermine River
Weather warm but windy. No intelligence of Augustus and his companion having arrived at 11 a.m., considerable anxiety for their safety prevailed amongst the party, and we embarked and proceeded down the river, with the intention of meeting them, or at least of ascertaining the cause of their delay. As the appearance of Indians in our suite, might enduce the Eskimaux to suspect the purity of our intentions, there were requested tom remain behind, until we have paved the way for their reception in a friendly manner, but Akaicho ever ready to augur misfortune, expressed his belief that our two Interpreters were killed, and that the Eskimaux warned of our appearance, were lying in wait for us. If this were the case he went on to state, although the strength of our party might resist and hostile attack, yet that his small band, separated from us, was too weak to offer any effectual resistance and that therefore, he was resolved, either to accompany us down the river or to return at once to his lands. After much argument, however, he yielded to our requests, and agreed to stay where he was, provided that Mr Wentzel remain with him. We therefore left that Gentleman, with a Canadian attendant behind. P. 75
The River during the whole of today’s voyage flows between high banks of red-sandstone and is every where shoal and rapid: and as its course is very crooked much time was spent in examining the different rapids previous to running them. P. 75
In the evening we had the satisfaction of meeting with Junius who was hurrying back to inform us that they had seen 4 Eskimaux lodges at the fall, which we now recognized to be the one described by Hearne, and that they had some conversation with their inhabitants, across the river, and had told them of the approach of white people, who would make them many useful presents. This information seemed to frighten them very much, and they would not venture to land upon this side upon which our interpreters were, but sometimes approached near enough in their canoes to be distinctly heard. Their language differed in some respects from Augustus’ but they understood tolerably well. Augustus trusting for a supply of provision to the Eskimaux had neglected to carry any with him, and this was the main cause of Junius’ return. Pp. 75-76
We encamped in the evening on the left bank of the river having come 12 miles on a NbE1/2E course. P. 76
Junius, after a short refreshment, returned to Augustus accompanied by John Hepburn, who had orders to remain about a mile above the fall, to arrest their canoes in their passing lest they should come upon the Eskimaux unawares. P. 76
About 10 p.m. to our great mortification, the Indians arrived. They had become impatient and Mr Wentzel did not possess authority enough to retrain them from following us. P. 76
Soon afterwards I went to the summit of a hill about 3 miles distant from our encampment and had a view of the sea which appeared to be covered with ice and extended from the NNE to the NEbE. … From the top of the hill, I observed the sun set a few minutes before midnight but although I remained there about a half hour it did not rise in that time. Its rays however gilded the tops of the hills, before I reached the encampment. The mosquitoes were uncommonly numerous tonight. P. 76
Max and Nick (below) head towards Sandstone rapids; Nick is buried somewhere in the cargo to keep warm.